Austin Vibes

Me and LBJ are besties now.

In mid-November, just before Thanksgiving, I was in Austin, Texas, on business. We'd gotten into town reeeeally late the night before due to delayed flights, and then we'd spent all day in meetings, followed by dinner with a vendor. We'd sacked out in sheer exhaustion at our hotel, the Hampton Inn and Suites Austin (University/Capitol), but by the next morning, we were ready to do a little exploring.

Day 1

My business colleague had heard about a great place for breakfast tacos - a food truck called Veracruz. So we suited up and headed out. I got the migas - tortillas stuffed with eggs, cheese, cilantro, avocado, tomato, and other goodies - and they were delicious! They have a trio of sauces you can try with them. Wash it down with some hot coffee, and you won't be hungry again for a while! (And it's a food truck, so prices are really cheap!)

Then, we went to check out the LBJ Presidential Library. (I'm slowly adding presidential libraries to my collection!) You enter at the front desk, where LBJ's presidential vehicle is displayed, and you progress through a ground-floor exhibit that details his early life and his relationship with Lady Bird. (They have some of her letters to him, and they are a wonder! I would have liked this woman, had I known her.) They also have a cool photo wall where you can take a pic of yourself with LBJ! Fun!

Then, you go up a flight of stairs and into an open space where some of his achievements are represented - public broadcasting, Medicaid, environmental protections, vehicle safety. Everyone remembers Civil Rights and Vietnam, but there was so much more. He casts a long shadow.

The presence of Lady Bird is palpable in this town.

Then, it's into the exhibits, and there are tons of great ones! You can see his Oval Office, in addition to Lady Bird's office. They have displays about Kennedy's assassination and Civil Rights. They even have a (slightly creepy) animatronic LBJ! But what I liked best were the interactive kiosks throughout the museum where you could touch a button and listen in on recordings of his conversations with people. So telling about who he was. It felt so personal.

Then, it was back downtown to explore a bit. I popped into the Texas State Capitol Building, which dominates the view from Congress Ave., for a self-guided tour. The building is huge and beautifully appointed, and you can wander to your heart's content. The dome is incredibly impressive. (And slightly larger than the dome at the U.S. Capitol building in D.C., I'm told. That's Texas for you.) Paintings inside detail all of the governors of Texas (I was surprised by the number of women!), and there are some cute items in the on-site gift shop. The grounds are lovely, too, especially on a pretty day! This is a great place to spend an hour or two.

The Texas State Capitol is a gorgeous building.

By this time, I was hungry! I popped into Caffe Aragona for a drink and a quick Caprese salad. Refreshed, I walked down Congress Ave. toward the river for a look around. The area is lovely, with walking/biking trails all along the water. Kayakers abound. I peeped under the bridge, but most of the bats are gone by this time of year.

I ended up at The Driskill bar, where I had specialty cocktails (a batini and a bluebonnet) and a snack while a musician played guitar and sang. This place has a clubby, old Texas feel, and the drinks and food were great. Plus, it was a happening spot - lots of people in and out, enjoying their evening. Loved this place.

Afterwards, I pointed my feet toward the the Paramount Theatre, where I had tickets for an evening production of Potted Potter. This send-up show has two actors racing through the seven Harry Potter books in 70 minutes. Plenty of fun, audience interaction, and general mayhem. A great way to spend an evening! Plus, the theatre itself is gorgeous. The coves and the ceiling are richly decorated, and the lit sign out front feels momentous somehow.

The floor mosaic at the Bullock Museum entrances.

Then, it was off for a well-deserved night's sleep! On my walk back to the hotel, I took in glimmering views of the Texas State Capitol Building lit up dramatically at night. (I also crossed paths with an enterprising raccoon searching delicately through a bag of garbage. He was completely undeterred by my presence, and in fact, quite neat with his work.)

Day 2

The next morning, I breakfasted at the hotel and walked to the Bullock Texas State History Museum. An airy, expansive attraction, it's centered around a three-story open atrium with an intricate mosaic on the floor. I started out by climbing up to the third floor to delve into the temporary exhibit, vibrant paintings that combined traditional American Indian elements with more modern accents. The same artist also had bright, layered paintings on display that depicted American Indians in the midst of traditional activities like hunting or riding.

I loved this temporary exhibit featuring the Comanche.

There's so much to learn here about the story of Texas: early history, prominent figures, the Hollywood cowboy, minority groups, the rodeo. And they are completely renovating the exhibit space that houses La Belle, one of Robert de la Salle's ships from his late-1600s French colony. Really cool!

After my trip to the museum, I decided to rent one of the many bikes in the area to do a little pedaling around Lady Bird Lake. You can rent bikes from more traditional kiosks (where you have to return them), or you can rent bikes using an app. These bikes have GPS locators on them, in addition to QR codes, and they can be returned to any bike rack in the city. I chose the second option, just for ease, and took off! I rode my bike down Congress, hung a right at the river, and took the bike trail up to the Mopac Expressway, where I crossed under the overpass to Zilker Park. The, I rode back down through the park area, stopping to take pics and/or get a sip of water from a fountain.

At around 1:30 p.m., I realized I was hungry. Luckily, my maps app told me that nearby was some of the best barbecue in Austin. I pointed my pedals toward Terry Black's BBQ. Now usually, I'm not one of those people who go to places "famous" for their food. Over the years, I've come to the conclusion that many of these places are tourist traps with long lines and inflated prices. Plus, I absolutely HATE to stand in line to give someone my money. Like, I HATE IT. But, since it wasn't peak lunchtime, the line was short when I got there, so in I went.

I couldn't agree more!

Y'all. I hate being wrong even more than I hate standing in line. And maybe I should have been standing in line a little more all of these years. Because the brisket at this place was off the chain. So tender. A nice, dark smoke ring. Even the sides were good. (I got a heavenly mac and cheese, and then some green beans so I could pretend at virtue.) The sauces were next-level and had round, deep flavors. Oh, I would go back here in a minute!!

Oh, Terry Black's! How I miss you!

After lunch, I pedaled back to my hotel, where I enjoyed a well-deserved break. I stayed close to the hotel that night.

Day 3

On my last day in Austin, I breakfasted at the hotel and then caught an Uber to Mount Bonnell. This gentle peak near the Colorado River offers pretty views of the water, surrounding neighborhoods, and the Austin skyline. I'd call it a walk much more than a hike, though you should wear sturdy shoes. You can either walk up a short trail or a long-ish staircase to get to the summit, where you'll find some covered areas and plenty of lookout points for taking in the vistas. It was a clear, sunny day, and I spent about an hour exploring before heading back down.

Bohemian Rhapsody, the biopic about the band Queen, had just opened, and I decided to swing by the Alamo Drafthouse for food and a matinee. I'd heard great things about Alamo Drafthouse, and it didn't disappoint. I sipped a margarita and chowed down on nachos while following the rise of Freddie Mercury's career. (I decided one should always have a drink in hand when watching a movie about a rock star. So appropriate.) The movie was great, the food was great, and I loved the concept. We're supposed to be getting a similar development near where I live, and I can't wait for it to open!

Beautiful views from atop Mount Bonnell

After the movie, I hopped on another bike and rode it down to the South Congress shopping area. So many cute little shops, restaurants, and food trucks down here! I did some shopping, stopped for a drink, and enjoyed the afternoon, catching a car back to the hotel with my purchases.

After being around so many hipsters in South Congress that afternoon (such tight clothes! and the men's hairstyles!), I was really looking for something old-school for dinner. I found it at The Carillion. Quiet, traditional atmosphere, delicious food, and not a man bun in sight. I sank gratefully into a booth and ordered the pre fixe menu, featuring a wedge salad, a fantastic steak, and a decadent chocolate concoction for dessert. With a glass of red and a cup of decaf, I was all set. Prices are a little spendy here, but service was perfect and I got exactly what I was looking for. Recommended.

The next morning, I was back in the air. I thought Austin was a great city! A really good mix of development and green space, with a young, energetic feel. I'll be back!