Take Me Away to Santa Fe (cont.)
There's beauty everywhere you look on Canyon Road. |
Day 4
I slept in, then headed back to Chez Mamou for an indulgent breakfast. Then, walking and souvenir shopping in the Plaza. I found some beautiful jewelry (There is so much amazing jewelry in Santa Fe, and most of it is handmade. It's unreal.), an exquisite pocket knife with an inlaid handle for little man, some grilling tools for hubs, a pewter wine stopper topped with a road runner, a coral and navy cashmere poncho - just lovely things.
After dropping off my purchases at the inn, I had lunch at Casa de Sena, where we'd stopped on the margarita trail the night before. The waiter recommended their fish and chips, and I was only too happy to oblige! They were delicious, with two flavorful sauces for dipping and a light coleslaw on the side. I dined outside, and the restaurant was busy.
After lunch, I walked to my next attraction - Santa Fe's Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. O'Keeffe lived just outside of Santa Fe for years, with the high desert serving as an inspiration for much of her work.
The museum isn't too large and is easily do-able in an hour or so. You begin in a room that contains timelines of O'Keeffe's life and world events. (I hadn't considered how much societal change her life spanned. When she was born in 1887, women didn't even have the right to vote. By the time she died in 1986, she was living in a completely different world.) You start with a touching short film that tells about her life and features some of the interviews she gave on camera. Then, you're off into the 9-10 rooms of her work to explore.
Becoming one with the universe at La Boca. |
woman, creating and reaching for what she wanted long before that was the norm for females in society. She's quoted as saying, "I've been absolutely terrified every moment of my life. And I've never let it keep me from doing a single thing I wanted to do." Bravo.
After a quick rest at the inn, I was back out that night for a resplendent dinner at La Boca. Oh, this meal was divine, divine. La Boca serves Spanish tapas, and my server recommended some grilled artichokes with cheese, which were wonderful. To go with them, I chose the grilled flatiron steak, which is served with a sea salt caramel sauce. (I got the sauce on the side, because I wasn't sure it would work. But trust me when I say - IT WORKS.) I added a glass of red and was transported to utter bliss. They had a live guitarist/singer, and he was wonderful. After I finished my dinner, I ordered a perfect slice of almond cake and a cup of decaf, listening to the music and becoming one with the universe. Just a wonderful, wonderful meal and experience. Highly recommended.
Then, it was back to the inn and to bed!
The park at the Railyard |
I had a busy day planned! I was up and at 'em early, and I started walking in the general direction of the Santa Fe Railyard. I'd heard they hosted a fantastic farmers' market there each Saturday, and I wanted to check it out! On the way, I stopped at Sage Bakehouse for an apple tart and a cup of coffee to get me going. (I was tempted to order more, but I planned to nibble a bit at the market, so I had to pace myself!)
Before hitting the market, I walked the length of the park at the Railyard while the temperatures were still pleasant. This place is a treat - trails, benches, play areas, public art installations, picnic grounds, even an outdoor performance space. What a gem. I walked all the way down it and back up again before hitting the market, which was right next door.
And what a market it was! Tons of fruits, vegetables, meats, eggs, baked goods, jams/jellies, flowers, just everything you can imagine. And just past that, they had an artists' market, where you could purchase handmade jewelry, pottery, textiles, metalwork, all kinds of merchandise. I first swept the whole farmers' market, then chose to buy some gorgeous little yellow cherries at a booth to snack on. There was live music, too, so I perched on a nearby bench, watch the show, and munched away. Perfection.
Then, I browsed the artists' market, picking up some jewelry to take home. (I was SO unable to resist jewelry purchases on this trip.) While examining some gorgeous bracelets, my ears pricked up. I heard my own accent (which is rather distinctive). I looked around until I located it, and I discovered an adorable couple who were in Santa Fe on vacation. They live in Madison, Mississippi, not a hop and a skip from me! We had a warm chat, trading tourist advice and sharing our best picks so far. (Mississippians are everywhere. Trust me. We're everywhere.)
Spoiled for choice at the farmers' market! |
Once I was finished at the market, I caught an Uber to Green River Pottery. Since Santa Fe is such an art town, I thought I'd try my hand at making some! (Plus, ever since my Parisian macaron class, my eyes had been opened to the fun of taking classes during my travels.) When I checked in for my class, I discovered that the pottery store was having a big sale. I chose a few finished items before being escorted to the studio for my lesson. My teacher, Leslie, was incredibly patient with me as she taught me how to seat the clay on the wheel, manhandle it into balance, and then hollow it out to make a bowl. It's harder than it looks! There are times when you have to be muscular with the clay, and other times when you have to be very delicate with it.
If you're not taking at least *some* rose petal baths, you're doing life wrong. |
By this time, I was getting hungry for lunch. I walked a few blocks to Second Street Brewery, where I had the steamed mussels and a side house salad. (I'm not usually one to rave over a house salad, but dang, this one was good. All kinds of inventive goodies in there - feta, beets, sprouts, sunflower seeds. It was fantastic.)
Then, I caught a car back to the inn, where I dropped off my purchases. Next, I walked to my spa appointment at Absolute Nirvana Spa and Gardens. I'd chosen this place because it had great online reviews and it was really close to the inn. I'd booked an hour-long massage and a 30-minute rose petal bath.
Check-in was a breeze, and then my very talented massage therapist got down to work. Oh. Em. Geeee. Amazing. She was amazing. I felt so relaxed and cared for. Filtered light. Soft music. Scented oil. Just the right amount of pressure. Orchids.
Afterwards, I had a nice soak in a granite tub full of warm water and rose petals. They provided hot tea and fruit for snacking. I felt like a goddess. (I loved this so much that I've drawn myself a few rose petal baths since coming back home. Life-changing, people. THIS is self-care.)
Then, it was a quick shower (They have a shower in the massage room.) and out the door. I loved this place and this experience. Worth every penny.
After a bit of relaxing at the inn, I changed into a summer dress and walked Canyon Road. This gorgeous stretch of street is home to a plethora of art galleries and gift shops featuring handmade goods. I found a soft leather wallet for my son and fun figurines for my co-workers. I very nearly cashed in my 401K to buy a couple of paintings. But mostly, I strolled, admired the art (and all of the beautiful landscaping, most of it punctuated by large public art pieces - just gorgeous) and reveled in having absolutely nowhere to be.
When dinner rolled around, I slipped into The Compound. This place was sooooo good. First of all, they gave me a great corner table by the window. I could look out, or I could people watch inside. Next, my server was a superhero. She gave excellent recommendations, knew the menu (and the bar offerings - blood orange margarita, anyone?) inside and out, and displayed a passion and love for food that I've rarely found. And finally, the food. THE FOOD. It was so, so good.
Everything is right with the world at The Compound. A place for people who love food. |
I had a heavenly pork tenderloin with a corn relish and pork jus and I ate. It. UP! Fresh and summery, filling but not too heavy. For dessert, I selected the goat cheese cheesecake, which came with berries, cherries and a coulis. Oh, heaven. Just utter heaven. If you go to Santa Fe, try to eat here. Even if it's a snack and a drink at the bar. This is a place for people who love food.
After dinner, I walked slowly back to the inn, taking in the air, the art, the city, the sun slowly sinking in the sky. Then, I miraculously packed everything I brought with me plus everything I bought into my poor, beleaguered suitcase. The next morning, it was one final farewell breakfast at Chez Mamou (I miss you, quiche lorraine!), and off to the airport.
I'll say it again - Santa Fe is a magical place. I don't know if it's the desert, or the mountains, or the art, or the energy, but it's magical. The people who live here make things, and they love the things they make. You can feel it in the air around you.
I've traveled many places. But no place made me feel the way this one did. (I admit to picking up some real estate magazines. Fine. I said it.) I will *definitely* be returning to spend more time here in the future. Love, love, love.
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