The Great Land (cont.)
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| Cataract Cove, which sits in Kenai Fjords National Park |
Day 4
Saturday was a big day for us, and represented the main reason we came to Seward. We were taking a seven-hour cruising tour of Kenai Fjords National Park. I worried over this tour, because seven hours is a LONG time. Shorter cruises are available, but nearly every recommendation I'd seen said to take one at least this long.
Now that I've done it, I can see why. A cruise of this length gets you deep into the park, which is mostly water, after all. And deep in the park is where you can see some really amazing stuff. We showed up early and got a light breakfast at The Porthole, a food truck that sits in the parking lot outside Kenai Fjords Tours. After we checked in, got our tickets, and used the restroom, we didn't have to wait long before they called for boarding.
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| Mountains overhung by moody clouds |
We boarded early and staked out our home table - on the lower floor of the ship, right-hand side, next to a big window. Though we'd periodically get up and go outside on various decks to see views and wildlife, we always came back here. Most other passengers on the ship did the same thing we did. We were lucky that the ship wasn't overcrowded, and there was plenty of room for everyone to spread out.
The day was cloudy and cool. We were bundled up for the weather (It's always colder out on the water.), but I was worried that the visibility would prohibit us from enjoying the trip. I shouldn't have been concerned. The moody clouds and mist largely added to our experience, and it quickly felt as though we were sailing through some epic movie set.
As we got underway, our captain talked us through what we could expect for the day. Our first stop was Fox Island. At this location, we actually docked so that some passengers could disembark and others could board. Then, we settled in for the rest of the cruise. Very early in the day, we saw a sleeping humpback whale. Our captain said we could tell it was sleeping because it just rose shallowly every few minutes or so to breathe.
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| Northwestern Glacier is a beauty! |
The real show came a bit later, when we caught two humpback whales who were wide awake. They put on a show for us! We saw them blow, and then we'd see what's called the "fluke," when a whale lifts its tail out of the water. A fluke is a sign that, soon, you will see a breach, when a whale thrusts 75% or more of its body out of the water. We saw our two whales do that, too! This was just a magical moment. I'd never seen a humpback whale before, and what a way to see one for the first time! Amazing.
Next we sailed south and out of Resurrection Bay, crossing all the way down around the Chiswell Islands and past Granite Island. Our captain made for Northwestern Glacier, and it was a sight to behold. The water in Harris Bay, where this glacier sits, is studded with chunks of ice. Harbor seals rested on the ice and played in the water. Our captain navigated carefully to get the boat very close to the glacier.
I don't think you can forget the first glacier you ever see, and this one is a beauty. Glacier ice is an aquamarine blue due to its density and the way such a dense ice refracts and reflects light. (The blue wavelength is the only one that can escape.) And the more closely you look at the glacier, the more you realize that, in a way, it's alive. You can hear deep rumbling and cracking. Periodically, small spills of ice and snow would fall off the glacier into the water. Though the glacier is technically at rest, it's always moving - somewhere. Our brilliant captain just parked us there at the glacier for about 20 minutes, and it was mesmerizing. We must have seen at least 15 seals in the bay - on the ice, in the water, swimming up toward the boat.
Then, we motored out to Cataract Cove, which is a steep, rocky cliff down which several high waterfalls plunge. This was the only part of the tour during which I felt the weather impeded us, as between the spray from the waterfalls and the drizzle coming from the sky, we were getting truly wet out on the deck. Still, this spot is completely magical, like a fairytale. (I would frankly love to see it in the sunshine.)
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| Northwestern Glacier, which sits in Harris Bay. Photos do not do it justice. |
Next, it was off to find some more wildlife. We found groups of sea lions swimming in the water and resting on the rocky islands at the mouth of Harris Bay, shrouded in a bit of atmospheric mist. Then, as we began our journey back to Resurrection Bay, a final treat - orcas! They swam quite close to the boat.
I just have to say that this tour was remarkable. The ship is large, with plenty of places to sit inside and/or stand out on the decks. They have restrooms and a snack/beverage bar on board, and they serve passengers lunch (a chicken wrap, cookies, etc.). While on board, you really have free reign all over the ship. Before the captain crossed any rough water, he'd give you a warning so you could get to a spot to sit. And honestly, our captain was a wonderful guide to the area. He's been sailing these tours for decades, and he knew so much about the area. We were in excellent hands.
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| Salmon at The Cookery |
The tour ended at about 4 p.m. We loaded back into the car and hit the rental to relax and shower before dinner. Then, it was back out for deliciousness at The Cookery, in little downtown Seward. This place is very popular (and seating is very limited), so if you want to go, make reservations! Luckily, we had, and we were seated immediately upon arrival.
We started with a few oysters - briny and sweet. Then, our waitress brought us a tasty amuse-bouche - smoked salmon with a bit of diced, dressed cucumber. Then, it was on to dinner. I had the salmon, and both hubs and my son chose the tri-tip steak. Both entrees were EXCELLENT. Service was speedy and very knowledgeable about the menu.
The price point here is high, but it is so worth it. The atmosphere isn't stuffy or pretentious, but the food is world-class. A must-eat in Seward!
Then, it was off to bed for a well-deserved rest!
Day 5
Sunday was Father's Day! We had croissants, fruit and coffee at the rental and gave hubs the card we'd packed. Then, it was time to give him his gift - a day of absolutely nothing to do! We lazed around the rental all morning, and then we took him out to lunch at Chattermark, in downtown Seward. I got the fish and chips, and both hubs and my son ordered burgers. YUM! The house-made sauce that comes with the fish and chips is excellent, and I really enjoyed my lunch here!
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| Beauties at the Alaska SeaLife Center |
The playful harbor seals scooted through their tanks like little spotted blimps, and the sea lions swam and played with such strength and grace. I was surprised to see that underwater, the puffins get around much the same way they do in the air - by flapping their wings!
I really loved this attraction, and I'm so glad I went!
Afterwards, I was jonesing to get outside and do some hiking. I found just what I was looking for at the Tonsina Creek Trail, which is only a few miles outside of town. It's a $5 day use fee to enjoy this area, where I hiked a 3.5-mile, out-and-back trail. You go over a ridge and down it again to a lovely little sea inlet. There's a picturesque bridge, a rocky beach, wild purple iris dotting the nearby pasture, and lovely views across the bay. A great hike!
Once I returned from my adventures, our little fam loaded back into the Subaru and went to Resurrection Roadhouse for dinner. Again, we had reservations, and again, I was really glad we did. (By the time we left this restaurant, there was a line out the door!) I chose the Roadhouse Salad and the seafood chowder, both of which were excellent, and I washed them down with a refreshing lemonade cocktail.
Then, it was off to bed.
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| The gorgeous end of the Tonsina Creek Trail, in Seward |
Day 6
After a quick breakfast at the rental, we were ready for our next glacier! We headed out to hike the Exit Glacier Overlook Trail, which is not far from downtown Seward. There are at least three trails that start from the main trailhead here (which also features restrooms and an interpretive center): the Glacier View Loop Trail (which is accessible), the Exit Glacier Overlook Trail (which is a little tougher), and the Harding Ice Fields Trail (which is hard). We chose the middle option, which involves some climbing, but which gets you a bit closer to the glacier than the accessible trail.
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| My sweet boy, hiking Exit Glacier Overlook Trail |
This was a great little hike! When you get to the end of the trail, you can get great photos of the glacier, too. This glacier used to fill the whole valley - even the part that you drive through to get to the trailhead. But now, sadly, it sits in a crevice between two mountaintops.
After we'd finished hiking this trail, we headed back into Seward for an unimpressive lunch at the Sea Bean Cafe. I had a chicken bowl, and the boys got sandwiches. The food here wasn't objectionable, but it was just ok. Then, we filled up the Subaru with gas and hit the road back to Anchorage.
Much like our drive down, we wanted to break the trip up a bit, so we stopped at Byron Glacier Trail for another hike and another glacier! This hike is GORGEOUS. You'll see mountains, little streams, and, of course, the glacier itself. It's an easy, flat hike, too, so it's good for all skill levels. And the glacier is beautiful. In mid-June, it was still covered in snow!
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| Gorgeous views along Byron Glacier Trail |
With another glacier hike under our belts, we returned to Anchorage and checked into our next awesome AirBnb. Once we settled in, I took a quick walk over to Humpy's Great Alaskan Alehouse for dinner. The place was packed, so I sat at the bar and ordered a cider, a crab roll (!), and fries. It took F-O-R-E-V-E-R to arrive, but when it finally did, it was delicious, and I ate it all up! Their crab roll had more ingredients in it than the one I'd had in Maine - celery, maybe some onion? It was on a really yummy piece of buttered, grilled bread.
Then, I walked across the street and caught one of the last showings of the day of AurorA, which is a documentary film (shown on a big screen) about the breathtaking Northern Lights. I figured that, since I couldn't see the Northern Lights due to the famous Midnight Sun, I could do the next best thing! It was a lovely little film, only about 40 minutes, but filled with beautiful images of Alaska's night sky and facts the aurora.
Then, it was back to the rental and to bed.
More to come . . .
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| Byron Glacier |
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