Nicole's Grand Adventure

Hey there, Big Ben!

Thing 1 - I like going on trips. And I am a type A sort of trip planner. Think detailed itineraries, including cross-referenced reviews, contact information, confirmation numbers, the works. When someone receives a travel itinerary from me, they typically have one of two reactions: 1.) Oh thank God. Where have you been all my life? or 2.) You are a psychopath. 

BUT, my most recent trip to Greece taught me that it might be time for a bit of personal growth in the form of giving up at least some measure of control to others. So I am working on that.  

Neal's Yard on a sunny afternoon

Thing 2 - I have a good friend, Jill, who is a largely solo traveler. But last year, she'd booked her first group travel experience (to Eastern Europe). She's a bit of a tough customer, and I thought she'd come back from it complaining about the schedule, the other tourists, etc. But no, she came back RAVING about it.

So, when Jill then noted she'd be booking another tour with this company - EF Go Ahead Tours - to Egypt, and asked if I'd like to join, I said YES. So began the start of Nicole's Grand Adventure.

First of all, I'd never experienced group travel before, so that was something new for me. Secondly, between when I booked this trip (January 2023) and when it was scheduled to occur (November 2023), tensions in the Middle East region ratcheted up. 

As the departure date approached, I considered cancelling (and many in our initial tour group of nearly 30 *did* cancel). When I'd booked my trip, I'd paid extra for the highest-level insurance package. Despite this, I was looking at losing more than a thousand dollars in fees, which were not covered even by the premium insurance. (Something to keep in mind if you're considering group travel.) 

In the end, I forged ahead, and I was glad I did. (More on that later.) Read on for how the trip unfolded.

Day 1-2

The tour I booked was a 10-day Egypt extravaganza. The company also offered an optional Jordan extension. I chose not to add that, but instead decided to fly into London a few days early and enjoy some solo time there before the guided tour began. It had been years since I'd been to London, and I figured that giving myself the opportunity to more slowly acclimate to the time change would be helpful.

A slightly mischievous Dame Judi

Rather than have the tour company book my flights, I booked my own via British Airways. I departed my home airport on Saturday afternoon and arrived in London mid-morning on Sunday. It took a bit of time to collect my baggage and get from the airport into the city. 

After dropping my bags off at my charming AirBnb, which was located conveniently in the Covent Garden area, it was almost lunch time. I had prepared myself for a cold, rainy London, but I was pleasantly surprised during my short visit to have a chilly but sunny city to explore!

I headed straight for Neal's Yard, which was walkable from my rental and beautifully colorful in the sunshine. Its sheltered courtyard location is home to restaurants, shops and a bit of lovely public space. A quick look around landed me at the front door of The Barbary, where one little woman can get an instant seat at the bar, even if she doesn't have a reservation! 

I started with a Yellow Submarine cocktail (I was pretty sure it was after 5 p.m. back at home.), then moved on to crispy/soft naan with an eggplant dip, then a gorgeous spiced chicken with onions. Delicious, delicious, and perfect for my first meal in London. Service was knowledgable about the menu, and the bartenders and cooks (clearly visible from my seat at the bar) made friendly conversation. 

Dining at The Barbary

After I'd had my fill, I ducked into the nearby National Portrait Gallery for some browsing. Much like many of the museums in Washington D.C., admission to the National Portrait Gallery is free. And there's so much to see! I stumbled across Shakespeare, Sir Thomas More, Oliver Cromwell, Bonny Prince Charlie, Benjamin Franklin, Percy Shelley - all kinds of familiar faces! Towards the end of the galleries, you'll find more contemporary portraits - Princess Diana, Elton John, Judi Dench, even Ed Sheeran. A simply wonderful place to spend an afternoon. 

At this point, my energy was beginning to flag. I walked the scant distance back to my rental and took a quick nap. When I awoke, I was jonesing for a steak. I found a delicious one at Hawksmoor. An internet search revealed that they were open, not too far away and had availability. I made a hasty reservation via Open Table, gussied up, hopped in an Uber and headed out. Mere moments later, I was enjoying a full-bodied glass of red wine and a medium rare filet. A pile of French fries and some garlic spinach on the side, and I was set. 

The upstairs dining room had the feeling of a gentleman's art deco study, and it was full of groups and couples enjoying themselves. Service was strong, and though the price point at this restaurant is high, the quality of the food was fantastic. (They also do a Sunday roast, though I was far too late for that, as it apparently sells out quickly.)

After dinner, I had one more stop. When I'd planned my trip, I knew I wanted to make a visit to Dennis Severs' House. Years and years and years ago, I read an article about this place in the New York Times. And, as if you needed any more proof about the power of story, I've been wanting to go there ever since. This trip was my chance, and I'd booked the dramatic evening tour months in advance (as spots for this experience are very limited). 

Shortly before the tour began, I clustered with five other guests in front of the house. At the appointed time, the door swung open, and we were welcomed inside. The story of the house is eccentric and unique, but what you need to know is this - The evening tour sends visitors walking through several levels of the building, guided by a masterful actor who interprets the house through the imagined lives of its colorful inhabitants. You never quite catch the residents in any of the rooms, but the spaces are all staged as if someone has just left or is about to return - fires blazing in the grates, full cups of tea, lit candles, clothing tossed carelessly over a chair. There is something so immersive and human and moving about it all. I was completely enchanted by it, and the performer who managed our tour was a virtuoso. If you love immersive experiences (and can manage steps and slightly uneven floors), I highly, highly recommend a visit. 

After this brilliant tour, I caught an Uber back to my flat and sunk gratefully into bed. 

The fountains were playing in Trafalgar Square.

Day 3

The next morning dawned sunny yet again, with a brilliantly blue sky cupping over the city's remaining fall foliage. I hunted up breakfast at The Lowdown, a cozy pink eatery with inventive food, great service and reeeeally good coffee. (Though I was the only person dining in at such an early hour, their walk-up window on the sidewalk was doing brisk business with flat whites and takeaway breakfast.) 

Westminster Abbey is a breathtaking place.

I decided that a city walk and a visit to Westminster Abbey were just what I needed. I was able to purchase a last-minute ticket online from my booth at the restaurant, then I headed out. I made my way through pretty Trafalgar Square (taking a few of the same photos that a much younger Nicole snapped on a film camera some 25 years ago) and past Big Ben, then lined up to get into the abbey as soon as it opened. 

There is so much exquisite detail in this church. Visitors receive a map upon entry, and the self-guided tour moves you through the nave (where you can see the coronation chair and the grave of the unknown warrior), the gilded quire, and Poets' Corner. You'll find the final resting places of many notable Britons, as well as memorials to others who are buried elsewhere. 

I loved the Lady Chapel, which I thought was the most beautiful space there. The fan-vaulted ceiling is a lacy dream, and the chapel itself is the burial place of fifteen kings and queens. The stained glass windows charge the air with color, and the bright flags of the Knights of the Order of the Bath stir almost imperceptibly as visitors move about the space. Just an amazing place to exist and breathe in. 

Once I'd finished exploring Westminster Abbey, I still had some time before lunch. Nearby was another attraction that had come highly recommended by several friends - the Churchill War Rooms. This unique experience takes you into underground bunkers beneath Westminster, where Churchill and a team of brave Britons directed the WWII effort. You see the spaces where these men and women worked and lived. Many of the rooms had hardly been touched between the end of the war and when the facility was re-opened to assess its viability as a tourist destination. 

At Churchill War Rooms, you can see the restored Map Room, where troop
movements were plotted and British officers stayed in touch with their allies. 

A companion museum space houses a fascinating collection of Churchill artifacts and memorabilia - hats and clothing, medals, personal effects, papers and letters, all kinds of interesting stuff. I learned so much I didn't know about Churchill - his love of good food and liquor, his deliberate showmanship, his devotion to loungewear. (Velour onesies for all! A man before his time!) It gives you such an appreciation for the Allied forces in WWII, what they were up against, and how they banded together to secure victory. 

Fish and chips at Two Chairmen pub! 

By the time I'd finished exploring here, I was hungry! A casual internet search led me to Two Chairmen Pub, a short walk from the museum. It felt fitting to order fish and chips, so I had that and a half pint of cider. It hit the spot for a very filling late lunch! 

A sun-dappled stroll through lovely St. James's Park, and it was back to the flat to take a load off. Once I'd rested, I was ready for more adventure. I wasn't particularly hungry, but I knew that I couldn't visit London and not see at least one show. From my phone, I discovered that Noises Off, one of my favorite live comedies EVER, was playing nearby at the Theatre Royal Haymarket. I bought a ticket online and made my way there on foot.  

What. A. HOOT! If you don't know the show, it's a madcap farce that follows a theatre troupe producing a stage play. We see the show in rehearsal, in performance, and then once more from backstage at different points in its run, observing the cast's relationships and weaknesses continually unfold. I laughed and laughed and laughed, then walked back to my flat and hit the hay!

More to come . . . 

St. James's Park