Magical Mexico (cont.)

I made it! View from the top of the stepped pyramid at the Coba ruins. 

Day 4

We slept in on day 4 and had our last, leisurely breakfast at the hotel restaurant. Then, we loaded up the car and headed to the Coba Ruins, about an hour drive. We decided to visit these ruins in addition to those at Chichen Itza because they offer a different experience - set back in the jungle, and with a large pyramid that you can actually climb!

It was easy to find the ruins and park (You park in a designated gated lot.), get our admission tickets and then enter the site. Just past the admission gate, you'll find an area where you can rent bikes, which I highly recommend. After exploring the ruins immediately at the entrance, we selected three bikes and spent the next couple of hours pedaling breezily over the jungle paths, pulling over at sightseeing stops to explore. Really fun!

Along our route, we came to the site's big pyramid - the one visitors can climb. Up, up, up I went - about 120 steps! The steps are steep and uneven, and there's a rope in the center of the stairway that you can hang onto. (I didn't use the rope going up much, but I did use it coming down.) The view and the breeze at the top of this pyramid is terrific! You can see the jungle spreading out beneath you, punctuated by the tops of some of the other ruins you've visited at the site. You won't be up there alone, but the climb is challenging enough that it won't be too crowded, either. I loved, loved, LOVED this experience.

The Choo Ha cenote is gorgeous. The water is cold and clear.

After finishing up at Coba, we were hot and looking for a way to cool off. Luckily, less than 4 miles away, you'll find Choo Ha cenote. We punched it into our navigation system, but we also asked the nice guard at the gated parking lot at Coba which direction to turn first. (He was very helpful!)

Pretty soon, we were paying our 100 pesos (which gets you access to three cenotes in the complex, even though we only visited one), parking our car and getting ready for a dip! At Choo Ha, they offer restrooms, changing stalls and showers (for rinsing off sunscreen, which can be harmful to the water and rock formations in this underground cenote). They also offer life vests, if you need them.

Once we'd gotten ready, we gave our tickets to the attendant and took the wooden steps down, down, down to the cenote. It was so beautiful! The rock formations are moodily lit, and the water is clear and cold. We saw little fish swimming about, and there were lots of little nooks and crannies to explore! (I was really glad that we'd brought and we rewearing our water shoes, as the cenote floor is rocky.) We were very lucky to be one of the few people there that day, so we had the area mostly to ourselves. It was just magical. Every once in a while, the sun would shine into the top of the cenote at just the right angle and create a dramatic spotlight. We took goofy pictures in it!

Tulum is a photographer's dream.

We swam and cooled off for an hour or two before deciding to dry off and head toward Tulum. After about a half hour's drive, we were there! We located our AirBnB apartment in Tulum pueblo, had a snacky lunch and settled in.

After showers and a rest, we gussied up a bit and took the car down to Tulum beach for dinner. We had reservations at Gitano, and I was excited to try some of the first really upscale dining of our trip! Now, driving to Tulum beach is NOT for the faint of heart. The road is narrow. There are walkers, cabs and bike riders EVERYWHERE. There is very little parking. So budget a bit of extra time, gird your loins and bring your courage and pesos.

Once we located the restaurant, we were very fortunate to find a paid, secured parking lot not too far past it. We thanked our lucky stars, paid and parked the car. Then, we walked back to the restaurant in plenty of time for our reservation.

I felt like I'd stumbled into a boho Cali
girl's Pinterest board at Gitano.

Y'all. I don't think I've ever eaten at a restaurant as Instagrammy as Gitano. It's set back in the jungle a bit, and it's all covered, but open-air. There are twinkly lights and candles everywhere. Music plays softly as fronds of greenery sway in the breeze. Hubs and I both got cocktails, and Clay ordered a refreshing juice. Then, we got lots of small plates - some hummus, guacamole, a plate of three tacos and the ribeye (our only large plate). We shared all of the food amongst ourselves, topping it all off with a fantastic cheesecake flavored with tropical fruit. This dinner was seriously yum and incredibly atmospheric, capping off what was one of my favorite days of the trip.

Afterwards, we walked just a bit (but not much) before heading back to the car and turning in for the night.

Day 5

The next morning, we walked to Don Cafeto, where breakfasts come with pickled veggies, eggs, mashed potatoes, toast and salad. (I am being completely serious.) While we ate, a street musician set up on the sidewalk and serenaded everyone. Once we were finished with breakfast, we had a decision to make - get in the car and drive out for a morning at the Sian Ka'an nature preserve or hit up one of Tulum's legendary beaches.

In the weeks leading up to our trip, I'd reached out to the preserve on numerous occasions to try and pre-book a tour. We never heard back from them. I was a little leery about driving the 30 minutes to Muyil only to discover that there wasn't room, or there were no boats available, or conditions weren't favorable for a tour, etc. So in the end, we decided not to chance it.

Instead, we slathered on the sunscreen, loaded into the car and headed to Playa Paraiso. This huge, idyllic beach is thought by many to be the most beautiful in Mexico, and it would be hard to argue. Turquoise waters, sugar-white sand, dotted with palm trees. You can access the beach publicly, be we opted to go the "beach club" route. In this scenario, you park in a gated, watched lot for free as long as you spend a certain amount of money renting beach equipment and/or buying lunch from the beach club restaurant. We parked, rented two chaise lounges and an umbrella (I'm half Lebanese, but you've seen how fair my husband and son are.), and plunged into the ocean.

THIS BEACH, y'all. It was a slice of true heaven.

We all loved this beach! Clay and I played I the waves for a while before hubs and I switched off, giving me the chance to bliss out on a lounge chair. Then, Clay and I walked the beach for a while before deciding to order lunch. A beach club attendant took our order, and pretty soon we were munching on a cheese quesadilla (for Clay), fried shrimp tacos (which may have been the best I've ever had) and grilled fish (delicious). This was seriously good food. However, I do imagine that you could eat the sole of a shoe on this glorious beach and think to yourself, "Man! This is some good shoe!" The club also sells alcoholic drinks, but mine was underwhelming. (Conversely, I nearly stole Clay's strawberry juice right out of his hand! So refreshing!)

After lunch, we got ice cream cones, which we enjoyed as we walked the beach again. One more dip and another lounge, and we were ready to pack it in for the day. (FYI - the beach club also offers free bathrooms and showers. Very convenient.)

For awesome family vacation photos, we put the cute kid in front. It seems to work out. 

Back at the apartment, we showered and rested a bit before our next activity. I'd booked a photographer via Shoot My Travel to capture some vacation photos for us! (I first tried this when my friends and I were in Paris last year, and I was instantly hooked. A great way to have really good shots of your WHOLE travel party on vacation!) We met up with our photographer Perla at a local bike rental shop (There are TONS of them in Tulum.), then pedaled to Aldea Zama, a nearby pedestrian- and bike-friendly neighborhood. For the next hour or so, we rode bikes, posed, walked around and goofed off while Perla snapped away with her camera.

It was about 5:30 p.m., and it was HOT. We were sweating. I remember thinking, "These photos are going to be TERRIBLE, because there is no way we look cute right now." But by some miracle, Perla got great shots! I was really pleased with how they turned out! The day after we got back home, Shoot My Travel sent us the download link, and now we have 30+ of these awesome shots!

After our photo session, we walked back to the apartment and spent a quiet night in.

Day 6

The next morning, hubs woke up feeling ill. We had pre-paid tour reservations to explore Rio Secreto that morning on our way back to Cancun. However, when you feel sick, perhaps the last thing you want to do is squeeze into a wetsuit and swim in an underground river through a cave. So we bagged it. (Sadly. And since they don't offer refunds, we burned that $200. Ouch.)

A quiet breakfast at Hotel Ginger.

Instead, we had a quiet morning. I was the only one who wanted breakfast, so I walked to the restaurant at Hotel Ginger, which was nearby. I sat in the lovely dining room, which opens to a bright, breezy courtyard, and ordered whole grain pecan pancakes. I ate my breakfast, read my book, sipped my coffee and breathed deeply. (You reach a point in every family vacation where a little alone time is welcomed. Folks, I was there.)

On the way back to the apartment, I made time to follow a few blocks of Tulum's Street Art Walk, which was completely engaging. So many colors, approaches and designs. I thought it was a huge add to Tulum pueblo and so well done.

After breakfast, we loaded up and headed toward Cancun. We made a brief stop for lunch in Playa del Carmen. We parked, strolled Fifth Avenue (which is pedestrian only and reminded me a little of the French Quarter in NOLA - very touristy, but fun), and got lunch at Los Rancheros. I ordered a chicken Caesar salad, and was pleasantly surprised when they made it for me table-side! Fun!

Then, it was on to Cancun. We navigated to Beachscape Kin Ha Villas, which would be our home base for the final leg of the trip. I'd booked our three-person reservation for a king suite - a king bedroom, a kitchen, a dining area, and a sitting area with a fold-out couch for Clay - on the resort's website way back in September. Over the holiday season, my credit card was stolen, and I had to cancel it and replace it.

The street art in Tulum is prolific and arresting.

The day before we were to fly out for Mexico, I received an email from the resort, saying they attempted to pre-charge our first night's stay to the card on the reservation, and it was denied. I called them the same day to explain the situation and provide updated payment information. However, the agent on the phone wouldn't take my new credit card info due to security reasons. Instead, she asked me to email them copies of my passport, the front/back of the new card, and the front/back of my driver's license within 24 hours. Otherwise, my reservation would be cancelled.

Well, I had to refuse that, as email is not a secure channel and not a safe way to be sending such sensitive information. I then suggested that she cancel the initial reservation and allow me to re-book it immediately on their website. That seemed to satisfy her, and so that's what we did. The new price was slightly higher than my initial booking, but it was a negligible difference and worth it to me not to scramble for new lodging at that late date. (Whew!)

Well, when I got to the resort, the front desk agent told me there was a problem with my new booking. She said that it was for only TWO people, instead of THREE people, and that to have my son stay in the suite with us, it would cost an additional $70 per night due to "dynamic pricing." I checked my second reservation and discovered that, in my haste, I had indeed booked the reservation for two and not listed that a third person would also be staying in the suite.

However, I balked at such a large upcharge, showing her that my initial reservation (which was for less money that my second one) WAS for three people. And after all, the suite in both reservations was identical. She referred me to a manager, and we worked out a deal - I'd pay an additional $30 total so Clay could have breakfast with us both mornings (breakfast was included in both reservations), and that would be it.

I rekindled my love affair with mojitos on this trip.

All that to say - just be aware that if you book direct through this resort, they have odd/funny payment rules if (for whatever reason) your method of payment changes. I might have done better booking all of my Cancun lodging via Expedia or Trip Advisor, either of which would certainly have been able to accept updated payment information remotely.

Anyway, after about 20 minutes of working all of this out, we came to an agreement and checked into our suite. Then, I went to explore the resort. The pool area and gym are both very nice, and the resort's beach area has a nice, gentle shoreline. The grounds are also lovely and meticulously maintained.

We rested a bit in our suite, then showered and got gussied up. We'd made reservations for a swanky dinner at a restaurant in the Paradisus, a nearby resort. When we arrived, we discovered that Tempo, the restaurant we *thought* we had a reservation for, had actually closed and been replaced by Sal, an upscale Mexican steakhouse concept. When we walked in the door and told the concierge we had a reservation for Tempo, he didn't bat an eye. He said, "No worries. I'm going to take care of you."

Minutes later, we were seated at a big, round table at Sal. We had such a great experience at this restaurant! Hubs and I started with two different Mexican red wines, and Clay ordered steak tacos and a melty Brie. (We all shared the Brie, and it was DIVINE!) Hubs and I both got delicious steaks (He had the ribeye, and I ordered the filet. They were perfectly cooked.), with potatoes and mixed veggies on the side. For dessert, we shared the molten chocolate cake and sipped big cups of decaf. As if that weren't enough, our servers gave us several amuse bouche to try - a glorious dip with blue corn tortilla chips, little meatballs in seasoned broth, even a little plate of dessert bites.

Service was absolutely exceptional - so kind, quick and extremely knowledgeable about the menu. I felt so spoiled, cared for and pleasantly full! For the whole she-bang, the bill was less than $80. Now, that's expensive for Mexico, but this experience would have easily cost us twice that in the States. I loved this place so much that I almost made a reservation for dinner there the following night before we left! Just fantastic.

Afterwards, we drove back to the resort and tumbled into bed.

I made a new friend at La Isla Shopping Village in Cancun!

Day 6

I started the day with an early morning walk along the beach - calm, peaceful. Then, I met hubs and Clay in the restaurant for the filling breakfast buffet. A quick check of the forecast told me that the weather was going to be cloudy with a chance of rain. I decided that was perfect weather for a shopping day!

I threw on a dress and some sandals and caught a cab to La Isla Shopping Village, just a hop and skip from the resort. This beautiful open-air shopping mall, which sits on a marina, features local, American, and international brands, in addition to food vendors. (Plus, this mall has a Zara, so, you know.) I found all kinds of cute beach dresses, pretty jewelry and yummy treats! (An attendant at the ice cream shop shaped the top of my raspberry gelato cone into the form of a rose!) I was also low-key obsessed with the interchangeable sandals at Chula. You buy one pair of soles and multiple straps of different colors for different looks. The perfect vacation sandal! I can't wait to wear them on my next beach trip!

When I got hungry, I stopped for a mojito and some delicious coconut shrimp at the Lighthouse restaurant, which features covered, open-air dining with a breezy view of the water. A delight.

After getting my shop on for a while, I hailed another cab back to the resort. We spent a quiet night in that evening, dining at the resort's restaurant. (Not awesome, not awful. Hubs and I split a big grilled fajita entree designed for sharing.)

Good morning, Cancun! Lovely to see you again!

Day 7

The next morning, I took another turn on the beach and lazed by the pool a little before making good use of the resort's laundromat to wash all of our vacation clothes. (I'd MUCH rather come home with suitcases full of clean clothes rather than dirty ones.) Then, I popped by the resort spa for a quick massage and a mani pedi. (If I had to do this again, I'd skip it. Though the attendants are wonderful ladies, the space really isn't set up to be a spa. The massage and the pedi were ok. The mani was not good. If you want a true spa experience, look elsewhere.)

Once our clothes were all clean and our bags packed, we grabbed a quick lunch and returned the car to National. (They found a scratch on the front right bumper that I had to pay for. I have no idea where it came from, but - insurance! I'll file a claim for reimbursement later.) After that, it was off to our uneventful (and on time) flights. We *did* have to sprint like the dickens at DFW to catch our last one. Between customs, security, re-checking our bags, etc., our connection was TIGHT, but we made it!

Then, at last, we were home, sleeping in our own beds again. This was a very different trip for us - we moved around a lot more, and we drove for the first time ever in a foreign country. Based on our experience, I'm taking away a few lessons learned:

1. We tend to like to unpack and stay in one place when we vacation. While I enjoyed moving around a bit on this trip, if I had it to do again, I wouldn't stay in any place less than three nights, just to make things easier. 
2. I didn't really like Cancun, but if I were to go there again, I'd just spend the money to stay at one of the REALLY ritzy all-inclusive resorts (like the Paradisus) and hardly leave it. Don't go looking for the "real Cancun." There isn't one. It's a resort town. You could be anywhere. 
3. I LOVED Valladolid and could have spent much more time there. This town felt like Mexico and was centrally located for exploring the surrounding area. It had character, and our hotel was absolute perfection. Ditto for Tulum, though if I visited there again, I'd choose to stay at a beach resort or rent a VRBO - and a bike - in Aldea Zama. 
4. I really enjoyed the more active parts of our vacation - biking and climbing at Coba, swimming in the cenote, our busy beach day. I will incorporate more active days into future vacations. 
5. I'd think hard about driving in a foreign country again. It can be a bit stressful. In the future, it might be worth springing for a car/driver for the day here and there.

All in all, though, we absolutely LOVED Mexico, and we can definitely see ourselves returning. We learned a ton, saw a ton, ate a ton, and did a ton, and it was all so much fun. What an amazing country! Adios, Mexico, until next time!
  

Thanks for the memories, Mexico! See you again soon!