Brasserie or bistro?

Rapport, a fairly new restaurant in Madison, bills itself as a bistro. I think, however, that it would more accurately be described as a brasserie. Regardless of what you call it, though, you'll leave Rapport with a very satisfied palate.

The dining room is small and cozy, with a short bar to the right. Though the menus themselves were a little tattered, the bill of fare looked positively sumptuous. For appetizers, we chose the baked oysters, four of which arrived on a VERY hot plate on a bed of rock salt. Scattered with leeks and cheese (among other things), they were DE-LISH and consumed in record time. For an entree, I chose the lamb chops, which came served with creamed potatoes and snap peas. Cooked to perfection, the lamb was glazed with a light butter sauce. It was all I could do to keep from gnawing on the bones. Hubby ordered the duck l'orange, which was meltingly tender, with only a light note of orange rather than an overpowering mess. The duck was served with roasted potatoes and snap peas.

But the perfect flourish to the meal was dessert - a FAN. TAS. TIC. cannoli, filled with a Bailey's Irish-flavored pastry cream, drizzled in chocolate sauce and garnished with a perfectly ripe strawberry. First of all, cannoli is not an item that you find on many dessert menus in the area, which makes it rather special. Secondly, the one other local place that DOES serve it butchers it unforgivably. So to find a delicious cannoli in the metro area is no small thing. I am happy to say that I've located it at Rapport. I will be back, back, and back, for dessert if nothing else.

Now to my point about the bistro/brasserie distinction - bistros offer limited menus of regular fair at everyday prices. They are the "family restaurants" of France, and prices reflect that. Brasseries are a step up from bistros, with more options and usually a higher tab. I'd say that Rapport fits into this category, especially since prices can range on the high side. (Although there were entrees for as little as $17, we spent about $26 each on our dinner plates.) But, hey, who cares? The food is great. Servers are quick and have actual KNOWLEDGE about the menu. (Can't stress this enough; our waiter gave GREAT suggestions.) The atmosphere is warm, and the house wine is drinkable.

Get thee to Rapport immediately.

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