Lake Como Luxury

Lake Como, where the lovely blue waters are ringed by mountains. 

Each year, a group of close friends and I take a fun girls' trip. Sometimes (particularly during the pandemic) it's a domestic destination, but other years, we travel abroad. Past destinations have included Paris, Napa Valley, Acadia National Park, Greece, and more. In pretty much all of these instances, I've been the chief trip planner and keeper of reservations, documents, tickets, etc. 

We made it! Susan and I enjoying
lunch at Bilacus in Bellagio. 

However, it's been a long six years of being in charge. And I'd decided on our trip to Greece (in 2023) that I was going to pursue personal growth and let someone else plan our excursions for a while. So, for *this* year, we decided to do things a bit differently. 

Firstly, we wanted to go on a trip with a little bit slower pace. (I tend to fill the schedule up. We wanted more down time on this vacation.) 

Secondly, Susan, who was long overdue to choose a destination, declared that she'd like to see the Swiss Alps. Not hike them. Not ski them. Just SEE them. So, that was added to our must-do list. 

Lastly, Susan wanted a cooler destination. I tend to choose places where the high will be in the low 70s. With all the activity, Susan feels overheated at this temperature. So, we were looking for a place where we might need jackets or coats. 

After batting around several potential destinations, we settled on Lake Como, Italy, with a few days in Milan (the location of our destination airport). A few of us had friends who had been there in the previous couple of years, and the photographs looked like some of the most beautiful landscapes we'd ever seen. The temperature was right, the food was supposed to be amazing, and we were a train ride away from the Swiss Alps. (In fact, Lake Como is surrounded by the Italian side of the Alps - the Dolomites.) 

Caron raised her hand to do the bulk of the planning (or rather, the poor thing was voluntold), and Shawn agreed to make some of the reservations as well. And that was how we ended up jetting off to Lake Como in April! 

More magic in my life in 2024?
Check and check!

Day 1-2

Our flights went off without a hitch, and Caron had arranged a private van and driver to pick us up at the airport and handle the 2-hour drive to our rental in Bellagio. (And boy, was I glad she did. Driving in the lake area is INSANE. The roads are impossibly narrow and twisty, and I would NOT want to drive here.) 

Once we got settled into our rental, we noticed something unexpected. It was hot outside. Like, in the low 80s. Luckily, I'd brought a cute little dress, so I threw that on as everyone was changing clothes and freshening up. Then, we set out to find something for lunch. 

Burrata. Yum!

We stumbled onto Bilacus, which was serving a gorgeous, multi-course meal special on their lovely second-floor covered patio. They had availability, so we were seated right away. Then, we enjoyed wine, a gorgeous Burrata salad, and beautiful bowls of pasta for lunch. 

As we ate, talked, and laughed, we noticed a sweet couple (and their adorable dog) at the table next to us. Now, you know Shawn cannot resist a dog. Pretty soon, we were all spoiling the pup and striking up a lively conversation with the couple (who was from Eastern Europe). We all compared notes on our home countries, recommended various travel destinations to one another, and parted friends. 

Up next, we decided to walk the promenade down by the lakeside. Gorgeous. Just gorgeous. The sun was out, and so were the visitors and locals. The promenade features tons of trees and benches, as well as long flower beds full of beautiful spring blooms. The lake itself is a glittery dream in the sunshine, cupped by dramatic mountains and dotted with ferries and cruising boats. We walked the length of the promenade, all the way down (nearly) to Villa Melzi, and then back up.

By the time we reached Hotel Florence, which features a lakeside open-air bar festooned with a wisteria arbor that was positively dripping with purple blooms, we were a bit hot and thirsty. We settled in for snacks and Aperol spritzes, and the setting couldn't have been more idyllic. 

Afterwards, we were struggling to keep our eyes open. We returned to the rental, where the name of the game was to stay awake until bedtime, and which point we gratefully slept. 

Lake views from Villa Cipressi gardens

Day 3

I woke up early, I noticed that the temperature was a little lower today. Still not quite as cool as we'd planned, but cooler than it had been the previous day. While the rest of my ladies snoozed, I figured it was the perfect opportunity to find a nearby bakery and grocery store and pick up some supplies for our week at the lake. 

Historic church of San Giovanni
Battista ijn Varenna 

Not far at all from our rental, I found Coppola Chef and Bakery, where they were just taking warm croissants out of the oven. Sold! I settled in for a fresh croissant and a big cup of coffee, purchasing some extra goodies for later. Then, I traveled on in search of a grocery store. Not too much further down the road, there was a Sigma Supermarket, which was still only a short walk from the rental. I picked up fruit, milk, a few snack and breakfast items for the rental, then made my way back to our home away from home.

By this time, my friends were beginning to stir. Everyone got themselves ready, and then we walked back down to the lakefront to catch a ferry to Varenna. In general, ferries from Bellagio to Varenna were frequent and quick. It was easy to hop on one at nearly any time, and the ride from Bellagio to Varenna was 15-20 minutes. 

Upon arriving in Varenna, we first visited the church of San Giovanni Battista (St. John the Baptist). This unassuming building is one of the oldest churches on Lake Como and the first church built in Varenna. Likely dating to before the year 1000 where an older Paleochristian building was located, the church's current structure is from an expansion in 1151. The interior features several frescoes.

Then, we explored the pretty little town square, stopping in a few shops to browse, before strolling Varenna's picturesque "Walk of Lovers" to the gorgeous gardens at Villa Cipressi. We paid a small fee to have access to the gardens and began wandering. 

Ok, a word here - Our group typically vacations in early May. This year, we were traveling in mid-April, largely because I'd been missing my own wedding anniversary for years. But *also* because an earlier travel time meant slightly cooler temperatures. What we didn't anticipate, but what turned out to be a huge win, was that Lake Como was positively SOAKED in blooms. 

Every wisteria was blooming madly at Villa Cipressi. Heaven.

Villa Cipressi is apparently known for their wisteria. The heavy vines drape vertically all along the gardens that face the lake. And, because we were there in April, they were covered in blooms. Covered. The heady fragrance was everywhere, and it was just magical to be in that place at that moment. The garden offers fantastic views of Lake Como, and paths stretch all the way down to the water's edge. After meandering a bit, we stretched out on benches, on stone walls, on the grass down at the lowest levels of the gardens and just stared up at the leaves on the trees. 

Lake side at Villa Cipressi gardens

Before leaving, we finished up with cocktails on the open-air patio of the property, enjoying spritzes, Bellinis, and other cool drinks with a small plate of snacks. Then, we took the Walk of Lovers back to sweet little downtown Varenna, where we explored the Church of S. Giorgio, which was consecrated in 1313. The church features beautiful architecture, lovely frescoes, and a black marble floor. Like most of the small towns along the lake, the church also has a tall bell tower, allowing you to pick it out from a boat on the water.    

Next up, we had dinner reservations at the Victoria Grill, right on the main square in Varenna. We ordered glasses of wine and big, beautiful pizzas, and I even popped inside for a second to select a few sweet takeaway desserts for later. Full and happy, we caught a return ferry back to Bellagio, walked slowly back to the rental, and sank into dream land! 

Pasta making in Lierna! This class was so much fun!

Day 4

We awoke fairly early the next morning, because we had plans! We were headed to Lierna for a pasta making class! 

We'd learned on the previous day that there was only one ferry *to* Lierna from Bellagio every day, and only one ferry *from* Lierna back to Bellagio every day. When I asked the ferry agent about going to Lierna, she did a double take and asked, doubtful, "You have an appointment in Lierna?" I told her that yes, we did. So she provided us with the times and sold us the tickets for the following day.

But first, pancakes . . . 

The ferry to Lierna left early, so we woke, dressed, and headed down to the water. By this time, the weather truly was cooler, so we were wearing our long sleeves! As we got ready to board the ferry, the ferry agent asked us where we were headed (as many ferries go to multiple stops). When we told him Lierna, he, too, crinkled his eyebrows and asked, with surprise, "Lierna?" YES, we replied. 

At any rate, the ferry itself was perhaps 20 minutes, and it was a beautiful, sunny morning, so we rode on the open-air deck for the gorgeous views. When we arrived at the dock, we mapped our way to a little local breakfast place we'd found online - Sister's Cafe. I had delicious Nutella pancakes covered in bananas and berries, accompanied by a lovely latte. (We loved this place. Food was good, service was quick and friendly, prices were low, and it was full of locals.) 

Once we were finished with breakfast, we began walking the short distance to our class, which was held at the home of our teacher. This experience was so much fun, and we learned a ton! A couple who'd just gotten engaged was also part of the class, so there were six students total. Annamaria introduced us to her ADORABLE dog, showed us where the restrooms were, and asked us to make ourselves at home. We started out on her pretty outdoor patio, where we gathered around the table, had a drink, and got the lay of the land. Then, we all processed into the kitchen, where we made our pasta dough. While the dough rested, Annamaria poured us glasses of wine and fed us small servings of pasta carbonara. (We told ourselves this was an appetizer. Ha ha.)  

Our pretty pastas!

Once the dough was ready to be shaped, she taught us how to make flat noodles (both with a hand-crank pasta machine and without one), bowties, and rolled pasta shapes. Then we made a spinach and cheese ravioli filling, and she taught us to make stuffed pastas! We made so many prettily shaped ravioli - flowers, hearts, the traditional squares, triangles, tortellini. When we were finished making them, Annamaria poured us MORE wine, then cooked them up in a beautiful butter sauce for us to eat for lunch. Delicious!  

This experience was a 10 out of 10. We had a great time, learned a ton, and ate like kings! And the class is timed perfectly to allow you to take the ferry there and back from Bellagio. 

Once the class was finished, we walked back down the hill to the Lierna ferry dock. When we arrived there, though, the ferry agent told us the return ferry from Lierna had been cancelled that day due to wind. 

Wait. WHAT? We anxiously told the ferry agent that we had to get back to Bellagio, that we'd already purchased return tickets, and that we didn't know what to do next. This sweet woman personally walked us (up hill and at quite a quick pace, I'll note, for four middle-aged women full of wine and pasta) to catch the train from Lierna to Varenna. She also told us that, once we got to Varenna, they'd honor our return ferry tickets to Bellagio. 

Lierna ferry, where are you? 
Answer: Cancelled due to wind. 

This worked like a charm. The train ride was less than 10 minutes, and we had plenty of time to grab another drink (Hello, mojito!) at a bar right near the Varenna ferry dock before leaving. Whew!

Once safely back at our rental, we rested and took a break. Then we put on our fancy dresses, because Caron had booked us a dinner reservation at Alle Darsene di Loppia, a high-end restaurant that she'd read was a favorite of George Clooney and his wife Amal. (Did Caron and I already have a plan regarding what we'd do if we saw the Clooneys at this restaurant? Yes we did. Never doubt our level of preparation, people!)  

Two smooth operators! Heh.

Because I believe in going big or going home, I got the multi-course tasting menu. It was several courses, but each of them was fairly small, so I wasn't painfully full upon finishing. I had a crisp salad with some anchovies, a lovely set of four perfectly cooked ravioli, some beautiful lamb, and a creme brûlée for dessert. And though Caron and I looked studiously for the Clooneys, we didn't spot them! (We did, however, get approached by a lovely older woman from Alabama! She overhead our accents and wanted to introduce herself. She was there with her adorable husband to celebrate a wedding anniversary, and they two of them were so cute and in love!) 

Though we'd walked to the restaurant, after such a big meal, we had the hostess call us a cab back to our rental. Something to keep in mind if you're traveling in the Lake Como area - ride share apps like Uber, Lyft, and the like aren't operating here. So, you either need to plan to walk, hire a car, use the ferry/train system, or call a cab. 

We were full and tired after such a long day, and we slept really well that night! 

More to come . . .  

Even the ferries can be fun!